Thursday, November 22, 2007

Setting:


It is getting dark. White lights twinkling on old lamppost's. A mist hangs in the air and gently covers the many domes of St. Mark's Basilica and the old clock tower. People are strolling along the waterside snuggled in their cozy winter coats and hats. Some are briskly walking home after a days work. The bells of St Mark begin to ring and a flock of pigeons flies up off of the square...


This is the setting I have been seeing nightly as I am now in Venice! It is VERY beautiful. Just as magical as everyone told me it would be!! I have been here now for 4 days but was only planning to spend 3 days after listening to backpackers tell me that you can see Venice in 1 day. PSHAW i say to that! With so many places to get lost in how could a person spend only one day in Venice?



I must say that arriving here was surely a breath of fresh air - literally! AS there are no cars here the silence, and smells of cold air and water are a delight to the senses. A welcome treat from the honking horns, exhaust and loud motors of Palermo.

Ahhhhhhh....Palermo.

So there is one more story from Sicily.

You know...sometimes it's the journey not the destination?

Being a tired sightseer and kinda bored of museums and ruins, I decided to take the advice of the guy on the bus and I went to where they make the best canolli! Piana degli Albanese - a one hour bus ride out of Palermo.

As the bus system is impossible to figure out in Palermo i resorted to asking a bus driver where the necessary bus was. He told me to meet him back in 1 hour and he'd take me to the right place.

Upon arriving he walked me to the right bus stop and asked a lady if she would take the responsibility of getting me to the right place. She agreed. Yay!

She (I think her name is something like Tiziana) asked if I was French or German to which i replied, "No I'm Canadian and I want to go to Piana degli Albanese to eat the best canollo. Are they good there?" She replied, "Yes of course but the BEST place is closed today but there is another place that is open that you can go to - they are also good there."

This other lady asks her (Tiziana) , "Is she American?"

"No she's Canadian and she is going to Piana degli Albanese to eat a canollo."

I don't know if they were proud of that fact or thought it to be strange.

She kept repeating that make sure I follow her on the bus and sit with her and when the bus arrived she hurried on yelling back at me to get on and sit next to her.

As we drove she pointed out the sights and people got on and off the bus greeting the driver, "Ciao Gianfilippo!"

We arrived at the destination and she decided to drive me to the bar in her car which was parked at the bus stop. How nice!

Upon entering she announced to the bartender, " Here is a girl from Canada and she came here to eat a canollo!" The bartender then pointed me out to some of the patrons as they entered for their afternoon snack. Wow...they mustn't get that many tourists here....

The canollo was VERY fresh - they filled the flaky pastry tube with the freshest ricotta cheese right before i ate it. What a delight! Buuuuuuttttttt.... i do like when the pastry is lined with dark chocolate it's a nice contrast to the sweet ricotta.

I took a walk around the small windy town and came upon an old sweet woman...not too many teeth. We talked and i understood barely anything as they speak a whole new language in that part of the world but she was sweet.

I returned to the bar for a glass of wine before I was to catch the bus at 4:30. I was reading when the bartender said at 4:15, "Signorina the bus". I shot up and ran out into the rain to a bus stop and the bus came right away and I hopped on. I bit into a piece of marzipan (popular in Sicily) and we arrived at the stop i got off at when we arrived.
The bus driver walked up to me and asked where i was going to.
I told him Palermo and he informed me that the last bus left at 4 pm and there were no more buses until tomorrow and no way back to Palermo tonight. I put my head in my hands and just said, " oh no"
I phoned the Hostel where i was booked - they had a car and we were only 30 km out of Palermo. But they told me to stay at a hotel where i was. NICE.
The bus driver (Gianfilippo) said there are no hotels in the area.
He told me not to worry as we drove to another town to drop off a little girl. He made a few phone calls to his aunt the English teacher to see what to do.
Apparently there was a B&B or GF's dad might be coming in for the evening shift to Palermo.
I was willing to stay at the B&B when Gianfilippo parked the bus and said he'll drive me to Palermo in his personal car.
WOW.
Well in true Italian style when we arrived in Palermo he took me for 2 glasses of the best wine i have had in Italy. Of course local Sicilian.
I was willing to walk from the theater close to the hostel but he insisted on driving em to the door which meant he had to drive backwards because the street was a one way. My knight in shining armor!!

Now to discover the rest of Venice....

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Change of Heart

OK, so i have changed my mind. It is amazing what a little bit of education and a day of sun can do for a persons mentality.


Talking with locals I have come to realise that yes, Sicily IS different and there is a lot to admire about the people, landscape and culture. First and foremost, people here consider themself Siciliano above Italiano . With that they like to speak Sicilian and some don't even speak Italian - like the man trying to tell me something at the bus stop. I felt so loooost.

There is a great mix of people here after learning of the many different cultures that Sicily formed from and the many invasions that took place within her borders.

And of course there's the mafia...did u know that the safest places are usually the ones with the hightest mafia control? They like to keep their 'regions' in order and quiet so as not to draw attention to any business happening. I think I have experienced 2 mafia 'conventions'.

One happened about 5 pm as i walked into one of the churches. Granted this church didnt look so spectacular from the outside that you'd almost miss it. I walked in to 2 men conversing in the pews. The thing is, i really scared them cos one nearly fell off the pew he turned around so quickly. Now i guess in all reality, maybe one was telling the other of his affair he was having with the local hairdresser and maybe he thought i was his wife or the priest. HE actually scared me - because he was so scared i figured i might be at the wrong place at the wrong time so i said a quick prayer to save me from being at the wrong place at the wrong time and quickly exited.

Then there was the one at the local archeological park. It was the first SUNNY WARM DAY in FOREVER. I entered atop the Greek Theatre to picnic on the grass and get some sun on my retinas to rid myself of 'SAD'. To my left two men were standing close and conversing, then the chipmunk like voice from a taperecorder being rewound is heard. Then I hear the deep voice of a man talking through the speakers...'oooooh what godfatherly-like things are goin on?' I wonder.

Apparentely my genereation of Italians are strong anti-mafia. I had the whole story from the memeber of an anti-mafia group on my bus ride - there are some interesting stories out there.

I seemed to have gained quite the hobby - shopping. Here in Italy there are not so many big box stores. So clothes are usually varried in the stores.

WHile en route from a small fishing village I met what I thought was a nice 'farm boy' . He repaired tractors with his family run business. New Holland is number 1 followed by Case and last John Deere. He took me for a drive around the sea and then we parked for a swig of his home made limoncello then he drove me home. However my phone fell out of my pocket in his car. I didn't realise this until i was ready to set the alarm on it for the morning. I tried phoning him in the morning hoping i could get it before i left for Palermo - 2 hours away. I was unlucky. Santo (from the hostel in Palermo) called this 'farm boy' in the evening to get him to send it on the bus the floowoing morning. The 'farm boy' refused saying he would not give it and that i had to go back to Catania to have dinner with him and he'd give it. I couldn't believe he was holding my cell ransom like that! After much panoic and a treatening phone call to him i received the phone. With a 'love letter' attacyhed. How sweet - blach!

Still a few more days here on the isle of Sicilia - ciao!


Wednesday, November 7, 2007

What is 'it' that I donìt like?

I must say that I am having a difficult time deciding whether i like Sicily or not. I mean it is very different from the mainland but i can't really put my finger on what it is that is so different and unsettling. For some reason I kind of feel out of place and it might be that it is because it is so quiet here. I came from the touristy Rome to quiet Sicily where there aren't many people here. Tourist season is officially over.
The architecture style is a lot more baroque and arabic. The people here have a different look- i am not sure what the mix is - looks like MAYBE Italian, Arabic and something? This is as much difference i can really pick out. And ok the fact that some areas look a little run down.
Other news: Ricky martin has a big single over here - a duet with an Italian. Ricky is still hot looks a little more buff and has a nice tattoo on his arm i never knew he had. Avril Lavigne is very popular here too - if u think that our radios overplay songs you should see here! Some other english song by I think a man named Cherry Ghost(?), 'People Help the People' is very popular and i love this song.
I think I bought some Sicilian hats from the mafia last night. You know, 2 older guys in suits in a hat shop...another younger one (in training) comes in to hang out and tell me which hat looks nice with my eyes...4 more are congregated at the door when I leave. If I only had a picture. I like the hats though!
Well time to go check something out in this town famous for their chocolate. Unfortunately the choco is horrible - just sugar and cocoa! Wheres the butter and milk i say!?!
A presto!

Sunday, November 4, 2007

Mafioso??

I was looking forward to arriving to the beautiful Sicilian blue skys....but alas the rain is here too. And when it rains it pours - not even my umbrella was keeping the rain off of my head and the bottom of my CAPRIS are soaked! Hmm... guess it was a good thing i was late this morning and missed the bus to volcano Mt Etna!
I am in the charming Sicilian town of Taormina - where the scent of jasmine fills the air. It truly is lovely. Of course as in the costal area of Amalfi, there are the flowering plants everywhere - quite the contrast from the frozen impatiens of Rome. The streets are a lot quieter than busy Rome and the people very friendly.
Unlike home, a lot of places-shops are closed here on sundays. Not so fun if you are a tourist or dont have a tv to rent a movie on a rainy sunday. But apparently there is a movie theater open today. I must ask a lot of people about this because i am having a difficult time getting the same answers from people!! This makes planning my days here VERY difficult. Oh well...
I will go back to the hostel for now and read my new purchase of a Greek Mythology book.
Last night i walked around the medieval streels of Taormina and it is very charming in the evening - It gets dark at 5:45 - with the fountains and building glowing in a soft white light and the savoury smells wafting onto the streets from the Sicilian restaurants . So far, i feel quite safe here. Not the feelings I sometimes felt in Naples when I saw groups of men gathered at a restaurant, sunglasses on...i could just imagine all 0f the 'Godfather' like things they were planning. Haha...
But this is only one night so far. Apparently i am close to the town wehere they filmed 'The Godfather' so that has been added to my itinerary to visit. Apparently its easy to visit on a Vespa!! Hopefully i will rent one if the weather holds up.....

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Logistically Impaired


As it is raining again i find myself in the 'internet point' with some time on my hands.
I am currently in Rome just back from a 4 day trip to Modena.
Modena is in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy- famous for their traditional balsamic vinegar, Parmesan cheese and home of Ferrari. In my opinion, this seems to be the best region for food and finally good bread (meaning that it isn't dry or stale )!!!
The gastronomic specialties in the area are the tortelloni which are big tortellini filled with squash and topped with the wonderful parmesan cheese refferred to as 'grana' and drizzled with thick syrupy balsamic vinegar. Of course there are the small tortellini - filled with meat or sometimes ricotta cheese and spinach in a cream sauce or in broth. Hmm...something new i didn't know would be a 'local' food were tigelle. A basket of small disk shaped breads that look like small pancakes arrive warm to your table. They are accompanied by various meats - salami, prosciutto and chicken. You then slice the 'pancake' and fill it with the various meats to make a sandwich of sorts. Not something i would expect to see at a supper table but they were good. Different grilled meats are on the menu as well.
So, balsamic vinegar here is a lot different than what we know back in Canada. Of course for those that use it, it is a thin liquid much like a vinegar is. Here in Modena they are famous for the 'aceto balsamico tradizionale' the balsamic vinegar made in the traditional way with only Lambrusco or Trebbiano varieties of grapes.
Like many Italian specialties that fall under strict rules and regulations to be named a certain product like: Brunello di Montalcino wine and the olive oils, aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena falls under these regulations as well. We got a great tour from the owner of a balsamic 'farm' who explained the process wonderfully. Did you know that the vinegar ages for a minimum of 12 years? The end product is a wonderful thicker, sweeter vinegar than the one used for salads. You are able to use the vinegar on anything from cheeses to meats and fruit. Wonderful!
This region is very industrial and is the region for tile. We looked in one shop and the tiles they produce are gorgeous!! The patterns and designs would cost a fortune to furnish a bathroom at home I am sure. But unique!!
Before i arrived in E.R. i had spent some time in Roma - around every corner there seems to be something to look at ...some ruin, church amazing fountains! It is a beautiful city although it is crowded. I loved the Colosseum and the church of Gesù - one of the most elaborately decorated churches. Today Brian and i were to go to the Vatican but due to the All Saints Day holiday it is closed. :( So i will visit tomorrow myself as Brian leaves tonight.
Before i arrived for the 2 week stint in Rome I was swimming the Amalfi Coast. Ok not literally but wow do they have GORGEOUS waters! The atmosphere was sooooo charming!! So get this, my first morning there I was walking from my B&B to the town of Postianto. It is about a 15 minute walk down the winding road. All of a sudden a vespa stops and the man asks if i want a ride into town!! WOW!! I think, 'just like in the movies'! This is my Under the Tuscan Sun moment. Made me very happy. I spent the week checking out the area flowering trees, beautiful hills and gorgeous sea side towns. Of course this week wasn't without trying to ward off men. One older man presented me with 6 chocolate bars and 2 bags of cookies and asked if i would sleep with him. WARNING: southern Italians should do not normally greet kiss you any different than any other Italian - meaning that they should stick to the two on the cheeks and not throw one on the lips at the end. Stuff i need to learn the hard way...
Sorrento was next on the list where I was able to squish grapes in bare feet!! This was due to the wonderful grape festival in Priora. Typical - white lights strung all over the street, traditional songs being sung and there was a great cake contest to top it all off.
Well off to Sicily in 2 days. I need some sun as i am feeling the effects of SAD. Its the rain....
Ciao for now!

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Floating around Florence


I think back to the last couple weeks and what i have seen and done...it feels like I have been gone forever. I have to say i love it! And i love the bank!
So from where i left off, i see i was about to get a full body massage in the olive grove. Well what can I say- Simone was as good looking as Isabella said he'd be. Of course, the oil of choice for the massage was oilve and like the pamphlet said the breeze was oh so caressing! la la la.... Lets snap outta la la land for a minute. I went to buy 2 bottles of wine from the grandfatherly man who owned the agriturismo. Well what a surprise when he KISSED me (not just a peck on the cheek let me tell you) then gave me an extra bottle of wine and a block of cheese and all of it for free!!! Hmmm...not sure how much i like this system of transactions. :) (now if this was the way Simone worked i might not be so objectionable )

On to Pisa where i met some wonderful gals who took pics of me holding up the tower. And one of them was unfortunate enuf to meet me at the train station where i roped her into helping me to lug my suitcases on to the train, off the train and to the hostel (ok i am mean). As for a town i found Pisa to be very industrial but apparently i wasnt in the right places as Italians have told me its lovely.

Cinque Terre are the lovely cliffside villages along the Ligurian Sea. Imagine kilometers of grapes terraced into the hillside withe colourful villages plunked here and there along the coast. A few lemon trees are plunked here and there and the vegetation is gorgeous. Another poor soul (Pamela from Oz) is trapped into helping me pull my luggage to the hostel- ok there are STEEEP hills here ok? Then there are the steps... Pamela and i share a room and meet Trisha from Vancouver. We hang out on some of the lovely hikes and go for supper in the evenings to our fave restaurant slong the water where the waiters hang out with us until close every night and let us taste diffferent wines and limoncino.
There are all sorts of hikes between the villages along the coast and through the hills- Trisha and i do a 6 hour hike day 1 I am there so my legs are sore the rest of the days in 5 terre. Day 2 i do the shorter hike to Corniglia where the nude beach is. I am told its one of the nicer beaches around cos our beach in Manarola is rock not rocks just a rock.
Of course the beach is full of naked men but if i close my eyes and sun tan i dont see them (its like this: 20 men to 3 ladies ). I go to cool off in the beautiful clear blue sea (swimsuit on)and have this naked Italian man nonchalantly swim over to me. Typical cheeso...black hair in a low ponytail. Italian small talk happens, 'nice day, warm water, where are you from'. Then of course the courteous thing happens: he puts out his hand to shake. So i meet Stefano who speaks english very well. He's nice and i am thankful that he didnt do the typical Italian greeting of grabbing me by the shoulders and kissing both of my cheeks!
On to Florence - home of all the great artists and many nuns. I meet up with Trisha and Pamela for one night here which was great to see them again! We were in a great hostel - kitchen free internet and laundry facility. I was thinking to stay the rest of my florence time here eventhough i was supposed to be at Instituto Sacro Cuore with the nuns. I went to stay one night with the nuns and was hooked. I have a gorgeous view from my room of Florence skyline. My bathroom window faces the olive grove and the country and every morning the birds voices are amazing and its quiet - out of the city. Mothers Christine and Terry are from USA so are easy to speak with and are SOOOOO kind. I just had to stay here.
I met Marco who has been the biggest help in planning this trip and he shows me the evening sights. BUT we are to be back at 10 pm SHARP!! I have a 9 pm curfew but Mother Christine allows us to stay until 10.
So far in Florence i have been to the Uffizi gallery which houses many of the worlds masterpieces. Unfortunaltly i dont appreciate or understand art enough tp really have appreciated what i saw in there. I especially wonder if technology in the movies has made me not appreciate what the fine hand of a human is capable of. I missed Leonardo da Vinci's room in Uffizi and the crowds drove me out of there quicker than i would have liked.
There is still a lot more to see in this fine city. The shopping is great- of course all of the high end shops are here: Prada, D&G etc. I bought my Bordeaux coloured 'riding boots' that i have been searching for since Siena.
I finally feel settled in to Italy and am loving this freedon of wandering the streets, popping in for a latte here and there, meeting wonderful people and having this sense of irresposibility. I am sure the bank loves my irresponsibility too.
Until it rains again - ciao!

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Officially Under the Tuscan Sun


Well I am very happy to say i have officially been under the Toscana sun for 4 days and it is the most wonderful thing. Everyday 26 C to 29 C - perfect!
I have tasted the purple of the grapes - and they are wonderful...not to mention the wine too. Not a day has gone by without it!
Our Agriturismo Cretaiòle is located near the village of Pienza. The villages are the typical narrow street villages and shuttered windows. It's hard to imagine people really live there!
Cretaiole is everthing i imagined a Tuscan house would be. Tile floor, wood beams on the ceiling, grapes growing on the front, old wooden furniture and cobblestone patio. It has beautiful views of Pienza to the east olive groves to the west with the 500 year old trees and the grapes to the south.
Luciano is the owner and i would guess him to be in his early 60's. He and I chat every morning ( he speaks no english so we are conversing with my so called italian) and drink grappa (almost like moonshine) together in the evening. He asks if its too strong for me and i say i am Ukrainan, i drink samohon'ka.
So far we have seen wonderful churches - including attending a gregorian chant by monks who were performing a service at Sant'Antimo. An organic farm that makes wonderful cheeses and breads with EVERYTHING from their farm. It was beautiful to tour their place - they are WWOOF members.
Food...oh the food. Of course we have eatent he wonderful food. Ribbolita - a thick veggie soup i had today is my fave so far.
The things i am looking forward to is visiting Luciano's working farm (tonight), a full body massage in the olive grove tomorrow afternoon ( apparently when they say full body they mean FULL body) and i was also told that Simone the masseur is nice looking. As well we are learning to make pici - a local pasta tomorrow.
Sunday i am planning to visit Cortona - where the movie Under teh Tuscan Sun takes place. Unfortunately monday i have to leave my rental car which has been very handy to have. But the drivers here - CRAZY!!! I dont know why they bother to put a centre line. The italians dont obey it- many times i thought they were gonna side swipe me!
I am so happy to know i get to do this trip for many more weeks - what a wonderful way to spend 3 months!
Did i mention yet that i get a full body massage in the olive grove tomorrow??? haha...
Ciao from Montalcino

Thursday, August 30, 2007

1 Week Left...


The days drag. I want to be there already. Of course I wait until 2 weeks before I leave to buy a digital camera - it came with a manual and by the looks of all of the 'functions' on the screen, I better read it. Read the manual along with all of the other literature i should have read months ago...
Yes, I am a bit panicked. I pick up one of my travel books, flip to a page and there is a tonne of useful info to know before I leave...what else am I missing out on?!?!
This is why I wish I were there already - no more thinking about things I shouldn't forget to do before I leave.
Yes I can see me relaxing on that cobblestone patio, Chianti in hand then in floats Dean Martin, "When the moon hits you eye like a big pizza pie, that's amore...."
Ahhhhhhh....one more week
(These grapes are a bit of Tuscany in my own backyard. They will be perfect for eating in a few days!)

Thursday, August 23, 2007

In Two Weeks...

At this time (8:10 pm) in two weeks, I will be boarding the Zoom Airline flight from Toronto to London after an 8 hour layover in the Pearson Airport. Then from London on to Roma. I can't believe it!!!
In two weeks I will begin my three month vacation in Bella Italia! I can't wait to "taste the purple" of the grapes and hear the "ding dong" of the church bells as did Francesca from the movie, "Under the Tuscan Sun". Who knew that turning thirty could be this fun!
Of course there is still lots to prepare. Reading on Roman art, studying the Italian language and deciding if I should bring my "Sex and the City" 3 inch black heels - I think they'd be fashionable in Italy... :)
So I will cheers myself with a small glass of Quail's Gate Fortified Vintage Foch in celebration of the 2 week countdown. (Now that I have opened the bottle, anyone is free to join me any day for a drink of this elegant Okanagan port style wine!)
Cin-cin! (cheers)